Textile Recycling Technologies, Colouring and Finishing Methods

2.4 Colouring Methods and Chemicals in Textiles 
An extensive amount of chemicals is used throughout the manufacturing stages of textiles, from 
fibre production, through to treating, dyeing, and finishing processes, often comprising 5-15% of 
a garment’s weight.
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 Chemicals may be used to provide colour and impart function to textiles. 
To convert raw materials into textiles, it has been cited that 8,000 different chemicals are used.
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Various chemicals have been identified to be toxic to human health and produce a multitude of 
effects on the environment, notably water pollution. It is estimated that the textile chemicals 
market is valued at 21 billion USD (2015) and expected to reach 29 billion USD by 2024,
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with 
43 million tonnes of chemicals used in textiles production annually.
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The economic benefit for 
the industry from eliminating negative health impacts from poor chemicals management is 
estimated to be 8 billion USD annually by 2030.
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Increased awareness and concern regarding effects of chemical usage in the industry has prompted 
widespread efforts to create and implement chemical management practices, identification 
systems, standards, policies, and legal requirements.
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There have also been extensive efforts 
towards new safe and sustainable chemistry and processes, as well as innovation around new or 
alternative chemicals.
In the Safer Chemistry Innovation in the Textile and Apparel Industry report by Safer Made 
(commissioned and initiated by Fashion for Good and the C&A foundation), chemicals on major 
industry restricted substance lists were evaluated, organized into 46 classes of chemicals, and six 
broad chemical groups, summarized below. Based on the six chemical groups, newly identified 
chemicals can be classified accordingly in the future.
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•
Amines 
•
Dyes and residuals 
•
Halogenated Chemicals 
•
Metals 
•
Monomers 
•
Solvents and process aids 
It has been identified that chemicals found in textile materials have potential to impede recycling 
processes;
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however, the knowledge base surrounding chemicals problematic for recycling is 
limited, and specific impacts have not been characterized. In the current system, information 
regarding chemicals and quantities present in textile materials is not generally passed on to 
potential recycling companies. It would be greatly beneficial to advance the knowledge gaps in 
this area by improving traceability and the identification of chemicals in textile materials, with 
concurrent work in the examination and identification of substances which have been found to 
interfere with recycling technologies.
 

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